Mark out a pad 1 ft bigger than your shed on every side. Dig out 4–6 in of soil, set a level frame of pressure-treated timber, lay landscape fabric, then fill with ¾ in angular crushed stone in two layers, compacting each one. For an 8×10 ft shed, expect to spend roughly $390–$580 and two days.
Before you start
Gravel suits most sheds up to about 10×12 ft on reasonably flat ground. If your site slopes more than a few inches across the footprint, or the shed will hold a heavy workshop, read up on timber-frame or concrete bases first.
- Check the rules. Ask your local council or building department about size, height and distance from boundaries. Many small sheds need no permit, but some areas do.
- Call before you dig. Use your local utility-locating service to mark buried cables and pipes.
- Choose the spot. Pick high ground that doesn’t puddle after rain, with room to open the door and get round the back to treat the walls.
The steps
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Mark out the pad
Add 12 in to every side of the shed’s footprint. An 8×10 ft shed gets a 10×12 ft pad. Drive a stake at each corner and run string lines between them.
Square it up with the 3-4-5 rule (3 ft along one string, 4 ft along the other, the diagonal between them should be exactly 5 ft), then check that both full diagonals match.
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Strip the turf and dig
Remove grass, roots and topsoil inside the strings, down 4–6 in to firm subsoil. Keep the bottom as flat as you can; a long straight board and a spirit level are your friends here.
Stack the turf upside down in a corner of the garden. In a year it’s good topsoil. -
Compact the subsoil
Run a plate compactor over the dug-out area (or use a hand tamper on small pads). Fill soft spots with stone, not loose soil, and compact again.
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Build and level the frame
Cut pressure-treated 4×6 timbers (rated for ground contact) to the pad size and screw the corners together. Set the frame in the trench, level it side to side and corner to corner, and pack stone under any low spots.
Drill through each timber and drive 24 in rebar stakes every 3–4 ft to stop the frame creeping.
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Lay landscape fabric
Roll woven landscape fabric across the base, overlapping joins by 6 in and running it up the inside of the frame. It stops the stone sinking into the soil and slows weeds.
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Fill and compact in two layers
Spread half the stone, about 2–3 in, rake it level and compact it. Repeat with the second layer until the stone sits flush with the top of the frame. Two thin layers compact far better than one thick one.
A light spray of water before compacting helps the stone lock together. -
Screed and check for level
Drag a straight 2×4 across the frame to scrape off high spots, fill the lows and compact once more. Check with a 4 ft level in several directions. Aim for within ¼ in across the pad.
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Set the shed on runners
Lay pressure-treated runners (skids) across the stone, at right angles to the floor joists, and build or place the shed on them. The air gap under the floor is what keeps it dry for years.
Still choosing the shed itself?The free Shed Review Guide includes a base-and-budget planner that works out stone quantities for you.
Get the free guideMaterials and tools
Quantities are for a 10×12 ft pad (an 8×10 ft shed) at 4 in deep.
- ¾ in clean crushed stone, about 1.75 cu ydAngular, not rounded pea gravel. Order 10–15% extra for compaction.
- Pressure-treated 4×6 timbers, 48 linear ftGround-contact rated. Six 8 ft lengths covers it.
- Woven landscape fabric, 12×15 ftWoven lasts longer under stone than the non-woven kind.
- ½ in rebar stakes, 24 in, ×10To pin the frame in place.
- Exterior structural screws, 6 inTwo per frame corner.
- Stakes and string linePlus a tape measure and marker paint.
- Spade, rake, wheelbarrowThe flat-bladed spade makes neat edges.
- Plate compactor (hire)Half a day is usually enough.
- 4 ft spirit level and a straight 2×4For checking level and screeding.
- Drill, long ½ in bit, sledgehammerFor the rebar stakes.
What it costs
Sample costs for a 10×12 ft pad, using mid-range US prices in 2026. These are estimates to help you budget, not quotes. Stone and delivery prices vary a lot by region, so phone two local yards.
| Item | Quantity | Estimated cost |
|---|---|---|
| ¾ in crushed stone (bulk) | 1.75 cu yd | $80–$115 |
| Stone delivery | 1 load | $75–$150 |
| Pressure-treated 4×6 timbers | 6 × 8 ft | $110–$150 |
| Woven landscape fabric | 12×15 ft | $20–$30 |
| Rebar stakes | 10 × 24 in | $25 |
| Structural screws | 1 box | $20 |
| Plate compactor hire | Half day | $60–$90 |
| Estimated total | $390–$580 | |
Already own a tamper and can collect stone in a trailer? You can bring this under $300. Buying stone in bags instead of bulk usually costs more for a pad this size.
Questions people ask
How deep should a gravel shed base be?
4 in of compacted stone is enough for most garden sheds on firm ground. Go to 6 in on clay or soft soil, or for larger and heavier sheds.
What type of gravel is best for a shed base?
Angular crushed stone around ¾ in, often sold as “clean” stone. The sharp edges lock together when compacted. Avoid rounded pea gravel: it rolls underfoot and never really settles.
Is gravel better than a concrete slab?
For most sheds, gravel is cheaper, quicker, drains better and is easier to fix or remove later. Concrete makes sense for heavy workshops, ride-on mowers, or where you want a floor you can sweep and bolt things to.
Can I build a gravel base on a slope?
On a gentle slope, yes: dig into the high side and build the frame up on the low side using two stacked timbers. Over about 6 in of fall across the pad, a raised timber frame or piers is usually easier.
Do I need a permit for a shed base?
Usually the shed matters more than the base, but rules differ by area. Check with your local council or building department before you dig. It takes one phone call and saves a lot of bother.
Base sorted? Now pick the right shed.Get the free Shed Review Guide: the specs that matter, a comparison sheet, and a budget planner.
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